o A platinum anniversary party can do without a royally delicious feast – but what to cook, exactly?
Here we’ve asked some of London’s top chefs and bartenders for their suggestions, not straying too far from tradition (if ever there was a time to celebrate the classics, now is), but with enough intrigue to keep your guests entertained. amaze (and they come back for seconds).
Appetizer: Eggs Drumkilbo
Graham Squire, The Goring, thegoring.com
It may be a dry story of the luxuries the Royals once enjoyed so much that a dish with lobster, crab, and shrimp (and sometimes even caviar) is still known as an egg dish. Though said to be a favorite of the Queen Mother, it was still served at the weddings of Princess Anne and, er, Fergie and he who won’t be named, so it’s safe to assume Her Majesty has a few. parts of has put away in her time. This one comes from Göring; that the hotel is the only one in the world with a royal warrant for hospitality is a good indication of its affiliation with the Windsors (the Queen is said to have hosted several Christmas lunches at the place over the years). This, from Chef Graham Squire, needs some work but is fittingly special for celebrating seven decades on the throne.
- 1 or two live rooster crabs (depending on size)
For the shellfish drum kilbo mix:
- 200 g freshly picked crab meat
- Espelette pepper, to taste
- Chopped chives and tarragon, to taste
- Grated lemon zest, to taste
- 30 g crème frache
- 60 g mayonnaise
- Lobster, cut into pieces
- Salt, to taste
For the tomato jelly:
- 2 kg plum tomatoes
- 10g Maldon sea salt
- 12 g sugar
- 8 g white wine vinegar
- 20 g agar-agar
For the brown crab mayonnaise:
- 200 g brown crab
- 2 egg yolks
- 150 g grape seed oil
- 10 g salt
- 3g espelette pepper
- 3g smoked paprika
- juice of a lemon
For the brown crab palmier:
- 200 g brown crab
- 80 g panko breadcrumbs
- Salt, to taste
- Pinch of chili powder
- Grated lemon zest, to taste
- puff pastry sheet
1. Cook the rooster crabs at 90C for 20 minutes. Let them cool to room temperature before cracking and picking the meat. Set aside and use for the shellfish mix.
2. Combine the shellfish drumkilbo mix in a bowl. Put aside.
3. For the tomato jelly, roast the tomatoes whole with the salt at 210C for 22 minutes until they begin to take on a dark color on the skin. Mix and hang, squeeze out all liquid (yields 800g-1kg tomato water). Set the water aside. Heat a small amount of this liquid and add the agar-agar while stirring. Remove from heat and add remaining liquid before refrigerating.
4. For the brown crab mayonnaise, mix and whisk all ingredients except the oil. Then slowly emulsify the mixture with the oil until it is thick.
5. For the brown crab palmiers, mix all ingredients (except the puff pastry) in a food processor. Roll out the puff pastry, divide the brown crab mixture over the puff pastry and roll it up tightly like a Swiss roll. Wrap it in cling film and freeze it. Once frozen, cut into thin slices and bake for 12 minutes at 190°C between baking trays. Let cool.
6. Spoon the combined drum kilbo mix and brown crab mayonnaise into four decorative glasses. Top with the tomato jelly and serve alongside a brown crab palm tree.
Main course: Coronation Chicken Salad
Kundan Singh R, The Tandoor Chop House, tandoorchophouse.com
The proper title for coronation chicken is poulet Reine Elizabeth, and it’s a fitting title, as the royal family at home—although say state dinners, not supper in front of the television—press for menus written in French. Originally conceived in 1953 by Cordon Bleu chef and teacher Rosemary Hume with the hand of food writer (and, er, florist) Constance Spry, the sometimes alarmingly canary yellow dish is a product of its time; a royal treat (chicken was the most expensive meat at the time) but sufficiently short of ingredients (rationing remained). This version from the chef on the Tandoor Chop House team dusts off the retro fave, gives it a little more spice with the added spices, but keeps it fresh and light to leave room for the inevitable pudding. The Tandoor recipe is for one, so just adjust how many you have; it is an excellent light source.
Serves: One (double if necessary)
- ½ baby gem lettuce
- 1 chicken breast
- 100 grams mango chutney
- 30 g slivered almonds
- 25 g Greek yogurt
- 100 g mayonnaise
- 20 ml lemon juice
- 15 ml rapeseed oil
- 5g breadcrumbs
- 5 g mustard seeds
- 5g turmeric
- Small bunch of fresh coriander
1. Heat the rapeseed oil in a frying pan and add the mustard seeds. Once they start to pop, add the turmeric and cook for a few more minutes. Remove from pan and let cool.
2. For the coronation sauce, mix the mustard-turmeric oil with the mayonnaise, mango chutney, lemon juice, yogurt and a pinch of salt and set aside.
3. Preheat the oven to 200C. Put a few tablespoons of olive oil in a small roasting pan and place the chicken breast on top. Rub the top of the chicken with a little olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and cook for 20-25 minutes until cooked through – check the juices run clear by pricking the center of each breast with a knife. Let rest for five minutes before cutting into small slices.
4. Shred some of the baby gem lettuce and combine in a bowl with the coronation sauce and chicken.
5. To make the salad, place the rest of the baby gem leaves in a bowl and spoon the crowning chicken mixture on top.
6. Garnish with slivered almonds, coriander and grated paneer.
Dessert: Queen of Puddings
Jessica Prealpato, Jumeirah Carlton Tower, jumeirah.com
While the link with Queen Elizabeth II is simply that they share a title, the recipe for this traditionally custard-y, jam-filled pud was originally put together for Queen Victoria and decades later it would be a bit of a hit with Diana. This variation is different from the traditional kind — a base of chestnut honey, poached rhubarb, lemon gel, and fennel meringue topping — as it comes from Jessica Préalpato, who may be considered food royalty; she is regularly mentioned as the world’s best pastry chef. Préalpato has built a career avoiding adding excess sugar to her creations, so this one is all about the natural flavor of the fruit; it means that a somewhat dated dish is suddenly much tastier; better yet, asking for seconds won’t lead to guilt (or, later, a sugar crash).
- 285 g rhubarb
- 20 g fresh ginger, finely chopped
- 90 g fresh fennel, finely chopped
- 130 g sugar
- 150 g extracted rhubarb juice
- 50g protein
- 50 g icing sugar
- 100 grams lemon juice
- 1 g agar-agar
- 38g milk
- 28 g liquid cream
- 6 g chestnut honey
- whole egg
- 14 g dried and burnt stale bread (put the bread slices in the oven at 210C for 10 minutes)
- 0.6 g fennel seed
- Peel of half a lemon
1. For the rhubarb and ginger marmalade: chop and cook the rhubarb, fresh fennel and fresh ginger. Simmer until the marmalade has reduced by about two-thirds.
2. For the poached rhubarb, bring the extracted rhubarb juice and 55 g sugar to a boil. Cut the rhubarb into wedges and put them in the boiling syrup. Strain and let the rhubarb steep in the liquid for 10 minutes. Check with the tip of a knife that the rhubarb is cooked and soft, let it cool, remove and cut into 1cm pieces.
3. For the fennel meringue, beat the egg whites until stiff (be careful not to overcrowd the bowl). Mix 50 g of sugar in portions and then add the icing sugar, sifted through a sieve. Spoon the mixture onto a greased Silpat and add the fennel seeds. Bake at 90C for two hours.
4. For the lemon gel, mix the lemon juice and agar agar and bring to the boil. Let it cool before blending with an immersion blender.
5. For the chestnut-honey pudding, mix 23 g milk, 23 g liquid cream and the fennel seeds and heat through. Strain and let it steep for 10 minutes. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and honey, then whisk in the hot mixture. Let cool, add the slices of bread and then the grater. Place in a bowl and cook for 10 minutes at 180C. Let cool again.
6. Take the cooked, cooled spice and put it in the bottom of a bowl. Add 15 g milk, 5 g liquid cream and 2 g chestnut honey and mix with a whisk.
7. Place the pudding spice in a serving bowl to assemble. Add the marmalade, then the poached rhubarb and lemon gel. Finally, put the meringue on top and burn with a burner.
Anna Sebastian, The Savoy, thesavoylondon.com
While gin-fueled Dubonnet is more closely associated with the Queen Mother — and while Margaret was the family’s drinker (famed grouse or nothing, served everywhere from swimming pools to state banquets) — the Queen is said to be a fan, too. Dubonnet is pretty special stuff, a rich, spicy, wine-based thing that tastes something like sweet vermouth with added sugar (or maybe some slug Campari). Christened by its creator Anna Sebastian – with experience working at The Savoy and Artesian at the Langham – as a Majest roni for the anniversary, this royal twist on the negroni is deliciously nutty and certainly one to toast (but not too much toast, it’s strong stuff).
- 30 ml Seventy One gin
- 20 ml Dubonnet
- 20 ml Tio Pepe sherry
- 10 ml Cassis liqueur
- Edible gold, to garnish
1. Stir over ice and pour over a large ice block into a rock glass.
2. Garnish with edible gold.