“Zabar’s: A Family Story, with Recipes” is a family tree of the delicatessen dynasty from 1870 to the present. Lori Zabar, the author and family historian who died in February, offers a map of Ukraine, showing Ostropol, where the Zabarkas were rooted before immigrating to America and shortening their names. Ms. Zabar, a lawyer and art historian, talks about the relative comfort the Zabarkas enjoyed in Ukraine, as well as the anti-Semitic atrocities they endured. She recounts their arrival in New York and the establishment of their tasty Jewish-style shop in 1934, along with family photos and a rich cityscape of the ever-evolving Upper West Side. Ms. Zabar describes the food and other items sold at Zabar’s and the employees who sell them, and provides family recipes for Jewish staples such as chopped liver and blintzes. The foreword is by Julia Moskin of The Times.
“Zabar’s: A Family Story, With Recipes” by Lori Zabar (Schocken Books, $28).