Good morning. One of the many joys of working in the office after being away for so much time is rediscovering the restaurants I wandered into for lunch. My old friends! It has largely been true, except for my return to the place where I was fond of dry-baked cumin lamb of fragrant excellence and remarkable, fiery complexity. It’s a mushy, pale, salty mess now. For this I put on dressed shoes and took the subway?
I have some feelers for another place. But in the meantime I’m going to make it at home, with this recipe for crispy lamb with cumin, spring onions and red chili peppers (above) which my colleague Julia Moskin adapted from the one Weiliang Chen used in his kitchen at the now closed Northeast Taste in Flushing, Queens. (Melissa Clark has a streamlined version.)
I hope you’ll join, even if lamb isn’t your jam. Hetty McKinnon developed a recipe for: cumin tofu that’s a vegan riff on a signature dish at Xi’an Famous Foods, executive chef Jason Wang’s restaurant chain in New York. “Loved, loved, loved this recipe,” one subscriber wrote below.
Now it’s a long day’s drive from anything mung bean or cabbage-related, but I loved Dwight Garner’s The Times review of bookseller Marius Kociejowski’s memoir:A factotum in the book trade.”
I’m late, but you should read Amanda Fortini, in T Magazine, about the legacy of Black Mountain College.
Read this overdue obituary in The Times for Lottie Brunn, a great juggler who died in 2008 at the age of 82.
Finally, here’s the latest from Maren Morris,”Circles around this city”, a country music song about writing country music songs. Listen to that while you cook. I’ll be back on Wednesday.